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Author Topic: Hiking the Utah GWT from Brighton Ski Resort to Bryce Canyon  (Read 3889 times)
leafninja
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« on: January 16, 2009, 01:46:02 am »

I've casually been looking into hiking a large section of the GWT for the past few years but have so far been unable to find much specific information on the actual route the GWT uses through the section I'll be hiking this summer. Maps are another rarity, and the best I've been able to find were some rough description of the trail from GORP (http://gorp.away.com/gorp/resource/us_trail/ut_great.htm) and a few bikepacking blogs.

At any rate, I've assembled some maps from these descriptions (from Brighton Ski Resort to Torrey, UT), using TopoFusion and 2M USGS topo maps. When in doubt, I did an aerial view to ensure that yes, there was actually a trail, but this wasn't possible on all sections. From the state PDF, I can see there are a few available routes on the GWT, but I could only find enough detail at the GORP site to actually create the maps that also agreed with the topo information.

So...
  • Does anyone know of a good source for maps or GPS data concerning the GWT, or is it pretty much still a choose your adventure type of trail? Ideally, some enterprising person(s) decided to put pen to paper and describe the Utah GWT from Idaho to Arizona, put in all in a book (or online), and offer it to us all.
  • Would anyone who knows the GWT be interested in reviewing the .gpx data to see if they are accurate (there are two track files)? I'd be more than happy to fix them, add whatever waypoints, etc. and then have them posted for general consumption on this site.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2009, 01:22:36 am by leafninja » Logged
Dwayne
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« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2009, 09:48:46 am »

leafninja, The hike you are looking to take is over 150 miles of very difficult terrain with limited supply sources. The first part going west from Brighton to the Great Western Trail, The second part 65 miles on The Uinta National Forest section of the Great Western and the last part of 85 miles on The Manti-LaSal National Forest follows Skyline Drive. I'm not familiar with the first and second parts however the third part is clearly marked and supplies will be available on short 20 to 30 mile side trips or you may be in cell phone contact with someone to drop supplies for you from roads and atv trails in the area. The areas are very remote and you will rarely see other travelers. I for one would love to hear about your adventure and the way you traveled. Yes the Great Western Trail is in a way "pick your adventure" because of the parallel trails for different modes of travel. However, I think you will find anyone you meet on this trail friendly and helpful no matter what the mode of travel. The areas are that remote. As a hiker you will have more choice from the network of trails, but be safe for wild bears and other dangers are present. The Utah rec map is good to have and the National Geographic Maps are good. One other source you may wish to check is the Utah State Parks OHV Maps for they show a lot of detail on all trails. http://www.u7.org/utahmaps/
Please keep us informed. If anyone out there has hiked this section please let us know about your travels. Thanks
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Dwayne
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« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2009, 03:13:05 pm »

leafninja, Also please feel free to post the .gpx files on site as drafts to be updated. I'm sure we can find someone to verify the exact routes with some sort of official trek. Thanks again.
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leafninja
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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2009, 06:22:59 pm »

I'm attaching the files and crossing my fingers...

UPDATE: These files are no longer current and are way too large. Please use the files posted later in this topic.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2009, 01:25:07 am by leafninja » Logged
Dwayne
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2009, 08:57:50 am »

leafninja, Thanks for the files... I'm sure we'll get this route maped out for it looks like a real fun trek. I find this site http://www.hikingpress.com/ which will give a little insight into how remote these areas really are. Please note that the pictured trail is in fact a forestry or BLM road, however much of the trail is uphill rocky and very difficult.Thanks again.
« Last Edit: January 28, 2009, 10:09:12 am by Dwayne » Logged
leafninja
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2009, 06:07:59 am »

Dwayne, I'm not sure, but it might be more appropriate if this thread were moved to hiking. I should have put it there in the first place, but wasn't thinking.

First, thanks for all your help and links. They've proven valuable and help piece together the puzzle of the dozens of books and websites I've read over the past year. I read Summer Odyssey and the Quadtrek adventure, and noticed there are only minor differences in the route of James/Simon (far more differences with the Quadtrek team, as you would expect). This probably has more to do with my familiarity with certain trails James did not have. Of course, their route may reflect the actual course of the GWT, but I prefer the 'corridor' idea that seems to be the standard for Utah, which would mean anything in the area is pretty much part of the GWT, at least for now.

One instance of the assistance Summer Odyssey provided was the area near the Alpine Loop since I haven't done much hiking east of there. I was not looking forward to walking that much pavement, and luckily, they provided an alternate. Unfortunately, that alternate places me near Deer Creek Reservoir and the town of Wallsburg. I am not familiar with that area other than driving through Provo Canyon, so it looks like I'll just have to wing it from the reservoir until I begin the climb up to Strawberry Ridge, though I have no idea where that trail starts, and would appreciate some help there.

I've extended the scope of the hike to include a route from Torrey to Bryce, and then on to the border (I've wanted to see Old Pariah, or what's left of it, for quite awhile). I'd also considered extending the northern section from the Idaho border, taking the GWT through the entire state. This was the original idea when I first started planning this trip but I’m thinking it might be better to allow more time for the original section instead of having to put in 15-17 miles each day and adhere to a more rigid schedule.

At any rate, I've refined the maps somewhat, and included all the sections I plan on hiking (border to border). I need to calibrate the GPS on the files to ensure they're accurate on the maps, something I'll try to do within the next few weeks, assuming we get more spring-like weather instead of the winter weather we've been experiencing.

My biggest concern, and one you mentioned, will be supplies, chiefly food and fuel. This won't be an issue in the Wasatch and Uinta forests; but, as you said, the trail through central Utah is more or less remote, with Skyline Drive being far from any municipality and requiring 20-30 mile side trips for food/fuel, or 2-3 days on foot.

I've thought of caching supplies along Skyline Drive, but that would take some serious time investment and makes me wonder what would happen if the supplies were discovered and disappeared (by bears, people, poor memory, broken GPS, evil sheep). I would have to assume, for safety, that anything cached would be gone or would not be able to be found, which leaves me in the same position I am now.

I'm also considering hiking into Ferron, which someone here mentioned had decent supplies. While I like the idea of real food, a bed for a night, etc., it's at least 30 miles from the trail. I’m exploring the possibility of having supplies mailed to the campground (via camp host?) at Ferron Reservoir, which is only a few miles from the trail. Even better, would be Twelvemile Flat campground, which is right on Skyline Drive. I'm sure a ranger visits there from time to time, and coordinating a pickup would likely not be difficult if I stayed in the area. That should be sufficient to get me to the Gooseberry Ranger Station. What would be your (or anyone’s) suggestions on where to resupply or how?

From the Gooseberry Ranger Station to Torrey, I see no logical resupply location, and doubt one is necessary given the mileage and terrain.

OK, just a few more questions:
  • I’m planning this trip for the first week in June through the first week in July. In previous years, I’ve had issues with snowpack on the trail. What can I expect if we have a cooler, wetter spring this year (from Provo to Torrey, specifically)? Will I need crampons the entire trip, or can I jettison them in the mail at some point along the way?
  • I know there is reliable water in most places along the trail, but are there areas I need to be aware of in particular that may not have regular water?
  • What sort of insect life will I encounter? I’ve been hiking and backpacking long enough to know June can be pretty miserable as far as biting flies and no-see-um assassin gnats; will they be problematic at the altitudes I will be hiking?

Thanks again for all your help!
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leafninja
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« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2009, 01:52:37 am »

I noticed the .GPX files I originally loaded were the pure, non-simplified versions, meaning they are both large and would never fit on anything that had a waypoint limitation (I think the large file had 22,000+ waypoints!). I removed the route from Brighton to Wallsburg (SE of Deer Creek Reservoir) because there really is no need for GPS data to that point, and the waypoints would be better used on the trail I am unfamiliar with (the rest of it). I have made very attempt to ensure the trails fit within the GWT corridor, but some confirmation would be great.

So... There are two files. One file is from the canyon beginning just SE of Wallsburg to Torrey and the second from Torrey to Ruth's Inn/Bryce Canyon. Both files should now be completely manageable. I have calibrated them to aerial maps as well, since there have been some minor changes since the topo maps were published. From Bryce to the AZ border is still in progress, as there are so many choices.

I’ve placed stopping points based on the location of water (springs, streams, and lakes), but have not included them in the files below. The entire trip should take 27 days, with two nights spent in Gooseberry Campground and two days spent in Torrey/Teasdale. That should be a total of 25 days spent on the trail with positive miles, equalling an average daily mileage of 11.53 miles.

I am uncertain whether the route down from the Escalante Mountains (via Escalante Canyon) to Bryce Canyon fits within the GWT designation. The only way I can see getting to Bryce from the Aquarius Plateau is by walking a road, either from the Ruth's Inn side of the Tropic side. I chose the Ruth's Inn side for convenience. Can the GWT be hiked continuously throughout Utah using only trails, or must roads also be used?

Also, does anyone know if Twelvemile Flat Campground has a campground host or other summer resident (e.g. Forest Service Personnel) I could mail supplies to so they would be waiting there when I arrived? The idea of carrying enough food and fuel for 13 days until I get to Gooseberry Ranger Station is somewhat daunting (about 22lbs of food at an avg. cal/oz ratio of 100 and 44oz of fuel -ouch).

NOTE: You must be logged in to see and download the two .gpx files
« Last Edit: April 08, 2009, 05:16:51 pm by leafninja » Logged
leafninja
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« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2009, 01:41:04 am »

For those without a GPX file reader, or if the GPX files are too cumbersome: I've attached the KML files (below) that can be used with the freely available Google Earth application (http://earth.google.com/), among others.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2009, 05:48:17 am by leafninja » Logged
Dwayne
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« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2009, 10:41:52 pm »

leafninja, The twelvemile flat area does not have a host. It does have water. Mayfield is actually closer than Ferron and both have great sources of supplies. My hiking days are over (i'm 63 and the legs are gone) but I do ride atv in that area. I know a few atvers in Ferron and I'm sure we could get supplies to you by using your cell phone for communication. Any further south of twelvemile and the cell phone will not work, however on that strip most of the cell towers are actually on that mountain. If you wish I could make contact with Gillys in Ferron and have them contact you abount a drop. Also Joes Valley would have supplies and it's not that far from the GWT. I would love to see you make this hike in good order. Let me know. Dwayne
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leafninja
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2009, 03:56:39 am »

First off, Dwayne, you are awesome. My apologies for the lag-time in the response. With only a little over six weeks until I start this hike, there is a lot of work to do, and a lot that has needed to be done, including testing gear (most time consuming, frustrating, and revealing), physical preparations, meal construction, GPS calibration, and financial planning (ouch).

I had initially looked at both Mayfield and Ferron, and it came down to a matter of grade vs. distance to get to and from either town. Myafield is, of course, much more of a descent/ascent than Ferron, so thought it would be less likely to kill me, especially going back up. I had listed Joe's Valley as a provisional emergency stop, if necessary. Ideally, I would avoid side trips if at all possible.

Bad news about the lack of a host at Twelvemile Flat. Great news in this might not be a problem. I would be most appreciative if we could arrange a drop. I figure I can mail the supplies to Gilly's or you or whomever, with the exception of the white gas. I'll send you my contact information so we can get that started.
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heffonia
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« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2010, 04:14:39 pm »

Hi Leafninja,

I am hiking north to south through Utah this coming fall, and I was wondering if you completed the hike you laid out in your .gpx files.  Any info on the validity of the maps, quality of the trail, resupply, etc would be highly appreciated.  I had been laying out my hike, and the trails are almost the exact same as yours, but knowing how unreliable the forest service/USGS maps are, I would prefer to have a recent take on the area.
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